防曬油
维基百科,自由的百科全书
防曬霜(英语:sunscreen)是防止皮膚受紫外線曬傷的護膚品。防曬霜有不同的防御指数SPF(Sun Protection Factor),指在一段情況下可延長避免晒傷的時間。如用SPF4太陽油,則在每平方公分的皮膚塗抹有 2毫克的防曬乳的情況下(臉部大約共為十元硬幣大小的量),可以延長4倍的曬傷時間,本來一小時便會晒傷的皮膚,可以受保護多至4小時;亦能夠阻隔 75%的UVB (算法: (SPF-1)/SPF)[1]。防曬黑係數(protection factor for UVA)則為評估防曬劑對UVA的防曬能力指數,包含日本的PA值系統、歐洲的PPD值系統。[2]
組成[编辑]
防曬乳含有下列中一項以上的成分:
- 能吸收紫外線的有機化合物 (原理:化學性防曬)
- 能反射或分散紫外線的無機微粒 (如氧化鋅、二氧化鈦,或兩者的混和) (物理性防曬)
- 如同有機化合物吸收紫外線的有機微粒,其中含有多重的生色團分子,能像無機微粒反射或分散一部分光線,且相較於有機化合物有結構上的差異,如Tinosorb M。(化學性+物理性)
紫外線的減弱效力受到其顆粒大小極大的影響,因此成分通常微粒化至 200奈米以下,以確保一定程度的吸收效果。此種防曬模式中90%紫外光被吸收(化學性防曬),其餘10%則被反射(物理性防曬)。
有效成分[编辑]
FDA核准成分[编辑]
以下是FDA所核可應用於防曬乳中的有效成分:
| 防曬劑 | 別名 | 法定上限濃度 | 核准使用的國家 | 安全測試結果 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 对氨基苯甲酸 | PABA | 15% (EC- banned from sale to consumers from 8 October 2009) | USA, AUS | Protects against skin tumors in mice.[3][4][5] Shown to increase DNA defects, however, and is now less commonly used. |
| 二甲氨苯酸辛酯 | OD-PABA, octyldimethyl-PABA, σ-PABA | 8% (EC,USA,AUS) 10% (JP)
(Not currently supported in EU and may be delisted) |
EC, USA, AUS, JP | Not tested |
| 苯基苯並咪唑磺酸 | Ensulizole, Eusolex 232, PBSA, Parsol HS | 4% (US,AUS) 8% (EC) 3% (JP) | EC,USA, AUS, JP | Genotoxic in bacteria[6] |
| 西诺沙酯 | 2-Ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate | 3% (US) 6% (AUS) | USA, AUS | Not tested |
| 二苯甲酮 | Benzophenone-8 | 3% | USA, AUS | Not tested |
| 羟苯甲酮 | Benzophenone-3, Eusolex 4360, Escalol 567 | 6% (US) 10% (AUS,EU) 5% (JP) | EC, USA, AUS, JP | Not tested |
| 甲基水杨醇 | Homomethyl salicylate, HMS | 10% (EC, JP) 15% (US,AUS) | EC, USA, AUS, JP | Not tested |
| 氨基苯甲酸胺 | Meradimate | 5% | USA, AUS | Not tested |
| 氰双苯丙烯酸辛酯 | Eusolex OCR, 2-Cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylic acid, 2-ethylhexylester | 10% | EC,USA, AUS, JP | Increases ROS[7] |
| 甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯 | Octinoxate, EMC, OMC, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Escalol 557, 2-Ethylhexyl-paramethoxycinnamate, Parsol MCX | 7.5% (US) 10% (EC,AUS)20% (JP) | EC,USA, AUS, JP | |
| 水杨酸辛酯 | Octisalate, 2-Ethylhexyl salicylate, Escalol 587, | 5% (EC,USA,AUS) 10% (JP) | EC,USA, AUS, JP | Not tested |
| Sulisobenzone | 2-Hydroxy-4-Methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, 3-Benzoyl-4-hydroxy-6-methoxybenzenesulfonic acid, Benzophenone-4, Escalol 577 | 5% (EC) 10% (US, AUS, JP) | EC,USA, AUS, JP | |
| Trolamine salicylate | Triethanolamine salicylate | 12% | USA, AUS | Not tested |
| 阿伏苯宗 | 1-(4-methoxyphenyl)-3-(4-tert-butyl phenyl)propane-1,3-dione, Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, BMDBM, Parsol 1789, Eusolex 9020 |
3% (US) 5% (EC,AUS)10% (JP) | EC, USA, AUS, JP | Not available[8] |
| Ecamsule | Mexoryl SX, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid | 10% | EC,AUS (US:Approved in certain formulations up to 3% via New Drug Application (NDA) Route) | Protects against skin tumors in mice[9][10][11] |
| 二氧化鈦 | CI77891 | 25% (No limit Japan) | EC,USA, AUS, JP | Not tested |
| 氧化鋅 | 25% (US) 20% (AUS)
(EC-25% provided particle size >100 nm) (Japan, No Limit) |
EC,USA, AUS, JP | Protects against skin tumors in mice[9] |
以下則為歐盟[12] 及世界其他地區所核准、[13] 但不在 FDA規章核可範圍之內的有效成分:
| 防曬劑 | 別名 | 吸收波段(大約數值) | 法定上限濃度 | 核准使用的國家 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 对氨基苯甲酸 | Enzacamene, Parsol 5000, Eusolex 6300, MBC | 4%* | EC, AUS | |
| Tinosorb M | Bisoctrizole, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, MBBT | 10%* | EC, AUS, JP | |
| 双乙基己氧基苯酚甲氧基苯三嗪(Tinosorb S) | Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenol triazine, Bemotrizinol, BEMT, anisotriazine | 290-350 nm | 10% (EC, AUS) 3% (JP)* | EC, AUS, JP |
| Neo Heliopan AP | Bisdisulizole Disodium, Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, bisimidazylate, DPDT | 310-350 nm | 10% | EC, AUS |
| Mexoryl XL | Drometrizole Trisiloxane | 290-360 nm | 15% | EC, AUS |
| Benzophenone-9 | Uvinul DS 49, CAS 3121-60-6, Sodium Dihydroxy Dimethoxy Disulfobenzophenone [14] | 10% | JP | |
| Uvinul T 150 | Octyl triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, EHT | 5% (EC, AUS) 3% (JP)* | EC, AUS | |
| 二乙氨基羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯(Uvinul A Plus) | Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate | 320-400 nm (354 nm maximum)[15] | 10% (EC,JP) | EC, JP |
| Uvasorb HEB | Iscotrizinol, Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, DBT | 10% (EC) 5% (JP) * | EC, JP | |
| Parsol SLX | Dimethico-diethylbenzalmalonate, Polysilicone-15 | 10% | EC, AUS, JP | |
| Isopentenyl-4-methoxycinnamate | Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate, IMC, Neo Heliopan E1000, Amiloxate | 10% * | EC, AUS |
- Time and Extent Application (TEA), Proposed Rule on FDA approval expected 2009
上述防曬劑相較於舊有的防曬劑為新式的成分,是為了進一步吸收大多傳統成分無法涵蓋的 UVA波段開發而成。
参考文献[编辑]
- ^ 什麼是SPF?. 香港天文台 (中文(香港)).
- ^ 美容藥物學
- ^ H Flindt-Hansen; P. Thune, T. Eeg-Larsen. The inhibiting effect of PABA on photocarcinogenesis. Archives of Dermatological Research. 1990, 282 (1): 38–41. doi:10.1007/BF00505643. PMID 2317082.
- ^ H Flindt-Hansen; P. Thune, T. Eeg-Larsen. The effect of short-term application of PABA on photocarcinogenesis. Acta Derm Venerol. 1990, 70 (1): 72–75. PMID 1967881.
- ^ P. J. Osgood; S. H. Moss, D. J. Davies. The sensitization of near-ultraviolet radiation killing of mammalian cells by the sunscreen agent para-aminobenzoic acid. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 1982, 79 (6): 354–357. doi:10.1111/1523-1747.ep12529409. PMID 6982950.
- ^ Mosley, C N; Wang, L; Gilley, S; Wang, S; Yu, H. Light-Induced Cytotoxicity and Genotoxicity of a Sunscreen Agent, 2-Phenylbenzimidazol in Salmonella typhimurium TA 102 and HaCaT Keratinocytes. International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health. 2007, 4 (2): 126–131. doi:10.3390/ijerph2007040006. PMID 17617675.
- ^ 引用错误:没有为名为
Hanson的参考文献提供内容 - ^ Nash, JF. Human Safety and Efficacy of Ultraviolet Filters and Sunscreen Products. Dermatologic Clinics. 2006, 24 (1): 35–51. doi:10.1016/j.det.2005.09.006. PMID 16311166.
- ^ 9.0 9.1 Lautenschlager, Stephan; Wulf, Hans Christian; Pittelkow, Mark R. photoprotection. Lancet. 2007, 370 (9586): 528–37. doi:10.1016/S0140-6736(07)60638-2. PMID 17693182.
- ^ Benech-Kieffer F, Meuling WJ, Leclerc C, Roza L, Leclaire J, Nohynek G. Percutaneous absorption of Mexoryl SX in human volunteers: comparison with in vitro data. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol. 2003-Nov-Dec, 16 (6): 343–55. doi:10.1159/000072929. PMID 14528058.
- ^ Fourtanier A. Mexoryl SX protects against solar-simulated UVR-induced photocarcinogenesis in mice. Photochem Photobiol. 1996-10, 64 (4): 688–93. doi:10.1111/j.1751-1097.1996.tb03125.x. PMID 8863475.
- ^ CL1976L0768EN0150010.0001 1..107
- ^ Australian Regulatory Guidelines for OTC Medicines - Chapter 10
- ^ Uvinul Grades (PDF). [2009-09-25].
- ^ Uvinul A plus.