水手連衣裙

水手連衣裙（英語：sailor dress）是依水手服樣式設計的連衣裙，這種樣式尤見於緊身胸衣與衣領。水手衣領的襯衫稱水手襯衫（middy blouse，middy源自midshipman，即海軍學校學員（英語：midshipman））。^[1]20世紀初美國以設計水手連衣裙的海軍裁縫名之彼得·湯遜連衣裙（Peter Thomson dress）。^[2]

彼得·湯遜連衣裙[編輯]

彼得·湯遜（或作Thompson）^[3]1900年左右在美國紐約、費城開設裁縫店。^[4]他為婦孺設計的原創水手連衣裙與套裝藏於大都會博物館服裝學院（英語：Anna Wintour Costume Center）、^[5]費城藝術博物館等美國博物館。^[6]彼得·湯遜連衣裙的夏裝以棉或亞麻製成，冬裝以羊毛製成。^[7]商家宣傳其為女學生理想服裝，並受試圖建立「標準樣式」服裝者歡迎。^[8]^[9]至1919年，彼得·湯遜連衣裙成為校服的有效選擇，以及「適合14—18歲女孩穿着多年好品味」的代名詞。^[9]彼得·湯遜樣式亦用於早期泳裝的緊身胸衣。^[10]

彼得·湯遜設計流行前，水手樣式的連衣裙已廣為人知。1887年瑞典，自然腰圍與百褶裙的「水手連衣裙」是服裝改革（英語：Victorian dress reform）運動所提倡適合女孩的設計。^[11]

20世紀末21世紀初[編輯]

水手樣式有時用於婦人服裝，但20世紀中葉以來主要用於嬰幼兒的連衣裙。^[12]20世紀後期，水手樣式與孕婦裝（英語：maternity clothing）聯繫在一起，導致對水手樣式女裝的負面印象，以及穿着者「孩子氣」的一般觀念。^[13]孕婦裝設計師利茲·蘭格（英語：Liz Lange）說：「她不應僅因有孩子就穿得孩子氣；讓蹣跚學步的孩子穿水手服是一回事，讓成年女子遭受這樣的命運完全是另一回事。」^[14]

參考文獻[編輯]

^ Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. The complete costume dictionary. Lanham, Md.: Scarecrow Press, Inc. 2011 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780810840041. （原始內容存檔於2020-10-20）.
^ Brooks Picken, Mary. Textiles and sewing materials: Textiles, laces, embroideries and findings, shopping hints, mending, household sewing, trade and sewing terms. International textbook company. 1923: 250. A kind of dress worn by young girls, the waist of which is made in exact imitation of a sailor's blouse. This style of dress derives its name from its creator, Peter Thomson, who was a tailor in the navy...
^ The Flapper 00:29:13
^ Suit: Peter Thomson (American) Date: 1902. The Collection Online. Metropolitan Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始內容存檔於2022-03-04）.
^ Sailor Suit: Peter Thomson (American) Date: ca. 1900. The Collection Online. Metropolitan Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始內容存檔於2022-03-04）.
^ Boy's Sailor Suit: Shirt and Knickers. Search the Collections: Philadelphia Museum of Art. Philadelphia Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始內容存檔於2018-12-04）.
^ Mrs. Mathews. Neglected Fraternity Opportunities. The Anchora of Delta Gamma. Delta Gamma Fraternity. January 1916: 168 [2022-03-04]. （原始內容存檔於2020-08-19）.
^ Przybyszewski, Linda. Much for Little. The Lost Art of Dress The Women Who Once Made America Stylish. New York: Basic Books. 2014: 1944 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780465080472. （原始內容存檔於2020-08-19）.
^ ^9.0 ^9.1 Dwyer-McNulty, Sally. School Uniforms: A New Look for Catholic Girls. Common threads : a cultural history of clothing in American Catholicism 1 [edition]. UNC Press Books. 2014: 102–104 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781469614090. （原始內容存檔於2020-09-26）.
^ Gold, Annalee. 90 years of fashion. New York: Fairchild Fashion Group. 1991: 61. ISBN 9780870056802.
^ Cunningham, Patricia A. Reforming women's fashion, 1850-1920 : politics, health, and art. Kent: Kent State University Press. 2003 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780873387422. （原始內容存檔於2020-08-19）.
^ Lee, Jaeil; Steen, Camille. Technical sourcebook for designers Second. New York: Bloomsbury Pub. 2014: 107 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781609018566. （原始內容存檔於2020-08-19）.
^ Iovine, Vicky. The Girlfriends' Guide to Pregnancy. Simon and Schuster. 2007: 129, 131, 135 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781416551874. （原始內容存檔於2020-08-20）.
^ Lange, Liz. Liz Lange's maternity style : how to look fabulous during the most fashion-challenged time 1. New York: Clarkson Potter. 2003: 8 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780609809174. （原始內容存檔於2022-03-04）.

[1] Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. The complete costume dictionary. Lanham, Md.: Scarecrow Press, Inc. 2011 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780810840041. （原始內容存檔於2020-10-20）.

[2] Brooks Picken, Mary. Textiles and sewing materials: Textiles, laces, embroideries and findings, shopping hints, mending, household sewing, trade and sewing terms. International textbook company. 1923: 250. A kind of dress worn by young girls, the waist of which is made in exact imitation of a sailor's blouse. This style of dress derives its name from its creator, Peter Thomson, who was a tailor in the navy...

[3] The Flapper 00:29:13

[4] Suit: Peter Thomson (American) Date: 1902. The Collection Online. Metropolitan Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始內容存檔於2022-03-04）.

[5] Sailor Suit: Peter Thomson (American) Date: ca. 1900. The Collection Online. Metropolitan Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始內容存檔於2022-03-04）.

[6] Boy's Sailor Suit: Shirt and Knickers. Search the Collections: Philadelphia Museum of Art. Philadelphia Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始內容存檔於2018-12-04）.

[7] Mrs. Mathews. Neglected Fraternity Opportunities. The Anchora of Delta Gamma. Delta Gamma Fraternity. January 1916: 168 [2022-03-04]. （原始內容存檔於2020-08-19）.

[linda-8] Przybyszewski, Linda. Much for Little. The Lost Art of Dress The Women Who Once Made America Stylish. New York: Basic Books. 2014: 1944 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780465080472. （原始內容存檔於2020-08-19）.

[sally-9] 9.0 ^9.1 Dwyer-McNulty, Sally. School Uniforms: A New Look for Catholic Girls. Common threads : a cultural history of clothing in American Catholicism 1 [edition]. UNC Press Books. 2014: 102–104 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781469614090. （原始內容存檔於2020-09-26）.

[10] Gold, Annalee. 90 years of fashion. New York: Fairchild Fashion Group. 1991: 61. ISBN 9780870056802.

[11] Cunningham, Patricia A. Reforming women's fashion, 1850-1920 : politics, health, and art. Kent: Kent State University Press. 2003 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780873387422. （原始內容存檔於2020-08-19）.

[12] Lee, Jaeil; Steen, Camille. Technical sourcebook for designers Second. New York: Bloomsbury Pub. 2014: 107 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781609018566. （原始內容存檔於2020-08-19）.

[13] Iovine, Vicky. The Girlfriends' Guide to Pregnancy. Simon and Schuster. 2007: 129, 131, 135 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781416551874. （原始內容存檔於2020-08-20）.

[14] Lange, Liz. Liz Lange's maternity style : how to look fabulous during the most fashion-challenged time 1. New York: Clarkson Potter. 2003: 8 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780609809174. （原始內容存檔於2022-03-04）.

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